Craftsmanship that’sBuilt to last.

Repointing is usually priced per square metre, and the honest answer is: it depends. The main factors are access (ground level or scaffold), joint condition, mortar type (lime costs more than cement in material and time) and how much brick repair is needed along the way.

Be wary of quotes that seem too cheap — proper repointing means raking joints to a sound depth, not smearing new mortar over old. Done correctly it protects your walls for fifty years or more; done badly it fails within a few and traps moisture against the brick.

Want a straight price? Request a free itemised quote →

If your property was built before around 1930, it was almost certainly built with lime mortar — and it should be repointed in lime. Lime is softer than the brick and breathable, letting moisture escape as the building naturally moves.

Repointing an old wall in hard cement is one of the most common and costly mistakes we see: cement traps moisture, forcing it out through the brick faces — the cause of the spalled, crumbling bricks you see on period properties repaired with the wrong mortar.

Rule of thumb: period property, lime; modern property, colour-matched cement. We’ll tell you honestly which yours needs.

Period property? Ask about our lime work →

Indian sandstone offers natural variation, warm colour and a classic look at a friendlier price. It’s porous, so it benefits from sealing — and every flag is genuinely unique.

Porcelain is the premium modern choice — dense, non-porous, stain-resistant and remarkably consistent. It stays looking new with minimal upkeep, but costs more and demands precise full-bed installation.

Either way, a patio is only as good as its sub-base and drainage — the place corners get cut and patios fail. We build from proper foundations up, with falls that carry water away from the house. We also lay limestone and York stone — ask which suits your property best.

Planning a garden? Request a patio quote →

Storm damage, vehicle impact, subsidence cracking — masonry claims follow a pattern: document, notify, quote, agree, repair, sign off. Most people struggle with the documentation and the back-and-forth with loss adjusters.

We take that on: thorough photography, a clear itemised scope your insurer can approve, and direct liaison with the adjuster — then a repair to pre-incident condition with matched brick and mortar.

One tip: photograph damage immediately, and don’t patch anything before the insurer has seen it.

Dealing with damage now? Start your claim enquiry →

Hairline cracks in mortar joints are common and usually cosmetic. Take these seriously: stepped cracks running diagonally through the joints, cracks wider than a pound coin, cracks that keep growing, and cracking around windows and doors — often a failed lintel.

Modern crack stitching resolves most of these without rebuilding: stainless helical bars bonded into the bed joints re-tie the masonry, finished invisibly with matched pointing.

The worst option is ignoring it — small movement problems become large rebuild bills.

Spotted a crack? Book a free assessment →

Your chimney takes the worst of the weather from every direction — which is why it usually fails before the rest of the house. Failed pointing lets water track into bedrooms and lofts, and loose masonry is a genuine safety risk.

Typical works: repointing the stack, rebuilding the top courses, renewing the flaunching, and re-bedding coping and pots. Caught early, it’s a modest job; left alone, it becomes a full rebuild.

Vegetation in the stack, open joints, or staining on chimney breasts inside — it’s time to have it looked at.

Chimney seen better days? Arrange an assessment →